Sail in Turkey - Days 2/3 Ciftlik to Sogut

It was late when we arrived in Ciftlik on Saturday evening and I had a bit of difficulty spotting a jetty as, anyone who knows me will tell you, I can’t see in the dark. Fortunately the guys from Rafet Baba’s Restaurant came out and swung their torches to and fro and guided us in. We picked up a lazy line and were soon seated at a water front table ordering dinner.

Ducks in Ciftlik

Next morning Mel made us one of her famous Turkish breakfast feasts and, as we were now in holiday mode, we were a bit late departing. We did a drive round Gerbekse Bay (rightly not to be missed as according to the guide), then had the jib in and out a few times to sort out the lines fouling on the dingy stowed on the fore deck. Once we’d sorted out the halyard hooked round the nav light on the mast we got the mainsail out and reached a pleasant 5.7 knots in a force 3 tacking across towards Rhodes and back. The day’s sailing satisfied thoughts turned towards supper. The entrance to Serce is quite well hidden and in 1977 an 11^th Century ship wrecked there was excavated and found to be carrying a load of Islamic glass, which is thought to be strange for a Byzantine trading ship. A very thin glass beaker with lions chasing each other is now on show in the Bodrum museum. Fortunately we made it in without getting wrecked.

Honu on The Loryma Restaurant jetty

Mel and Chazz at The Loryma Restaurant

Serce is quite remote and Captain Nemo’s is the only restaurant. There was music and merriment with several crews of Germans and Russians enjoying themselves. The food was good and plentiful but my crew found it expensive, being used to Istanbul prices, but it seemed reasonable enough to me especially considering where we were! The combined foreigners partied late into the night back on one of the boats but I slept peacefully through it all.

We didn’t have fresh bread and eggs delivered to the boat for breakfast as the crew had declined to pay the exorbitant prices! After making do with nevertheless delicious left-overs, in little wind we motored into Bozuk Buku and moored at the far end of the bay on the Loryma Restaurant jetty. It was so nice and peaceful I could have stayed there all day. However, after coffee and a swim we motored on round the Karaburun headland then got the sails up and headed for Sogut. Which was where we discovered The Octopus.

The clouds were gathering threatening a mighty thunderstorm but in the event we only experienced a few drops of rain. The clouds however created a magnificent sunset. Following a circuit of the bay we decided on The Octopus Restaurant jetty where once again we were given assistance in picking up their lazy line and mooring.

Despite several days of backing on stern-to I simply wasn’t getting the hang of reversing this boat. I blame the twin steering wheels. Then I watched a woman bring a boat in standing facing rearwards with a hand on each wheel just gently nudging this way and that, it looked good, so I thought that’s the way to do it!

Mosaic at The Octopus

Sunset at Sogut

Mel slipped up to the restaurant to make sure we would get a waterside table for dinner and then we all availed ourselves of the excellent facilities in the shower block. By the time I got there Chazz had found how to turn on the ambient background music so it was a shower to die for. We had the most delicious dinner yet and all for 142 Turkish lira (64 euro) including starters and drinks.

Everyone was blissfully happy.

Sail in Turkey - Day 1 - Marmaris to Ciftlik

West from Marmaris

Charley and I haven’t sailed together for 10 years now, so imagine my surprise when he jumped at my suggestion of introducing Mel to sailing with a flotilla holiday for our annual autumn break. In fact he went one stage further and encouraged me to do a bareboat charter. I took a bit of persuading as I wasn’t sure I was up to it with the old body rather falling to bits now. And, although I have done the course and got the certificate, I know my navigation skills leave a lot to be desired. Ok, I can find my way round the local waters as I have done it once or twice but distant climes? However, having looked at the map I could see we needn’t be out of the sight of land so all should be well. Also, I was confident that Chazz would be able to use the chart plotter and keep us on track.

Free Upgrade, from Diamond Geezer to Honu

It took me a while on the internet to find a boat of the right size at a reasonable price. Some good friends lent me their Turkish Pilot and a Cruising Guide so I was able to gen up prior to leaving. I left home on the Friday morning by car for the bus station on Lefkas. After the obligatory 5 hour bus journey then the 1 hour bus transfer to Athens airport the short flight to Istanbul was soon over. There is an airport bus into Taxim Square where Chazz met me and we went off to their flat for a pizza supper. Early next morning we took a taxi to the other airport in Istanbul on the Asian side. A short flight on Pegasus Airlines www.flypgs.com and we arrived in Dalaman. There was a very clever flight information film on the monitors peopled by children, captivating!

Lunch at The Pineapple

An express bus to Marmaris, a short taxi ride and we were in Netsel Marina by mid-day. We went straight to Sail in Turkey’s office to leave our bags as we didn’t expect to get on board until 17.00. There was good news and there was bad news. The bad news was the boat we had booked had suspected mice on board but the good news was a free upgrade to a bigger boat, and it was ready immediately! I was a bit shell shocked but we took it in our stride. Lunch was now involved and Steff advised us of a couple of good places to go. We went to the nearest, The Pineapple, which was far beyond good.

Ciftlik

 Quick segue into holiday mood and by the time we had provisioned at the local Migros supermarket and done the paperwork it was time to leave. Steff had already talked us through a brilliant publication ‘The Bay Express’ which is a restaurant guide for the whole area. Specifically for sailors, it gives details not only of their menu specialities but of jetties and lazy lines together with co-ordinates and telephone numbers. Mark gave a briefing on the boat, and although I would have been happy to stay in Marmaris for the night, it seemed like a good suggestion to get off. The pilot makes the Marmaris approach sound terrifying but it was actually plain sailing to get out of the bay, round the headland, Kadirga Burnu, and into Ciftlik.